Trekking in El Altar Volcano in Riobamba, Ecuador

Volcán El Altar - Riobamba Ecuador

El Altar Volcano offers one of the most stunning trekking experiences in Ecuador’s Andes. This remote trail takes you through some of the most untouched landscapes, making it a true off-the-beaten-path destination for trekkers.

What’s special about El Altar is the solitude—you’ll rarely encounter other visitors, allowing for a few days of complete disconnection from the world. The journey’s ultimate reward is the breathtaking sight of El Altar’s crater lake, surrounded by steep volcanic cliffs, creating an unforgettable scene.

With an elevation of 5,319 meters, the highest point of El Altar is El Obispo (The Bishop). Known as Ecuador’s crown jewel of technical climbing, El Altar presents challenging routes and limited access, so it’s rarely attempted, making it one of the most extreme adventures in Ecuador.

This trek is a must for any passionate mountain hiker, offering expansive mountain views, untouched nature, snowcapped peaks, and the soothing sounds of waterfalls along the way.

How to Get to El Altar

Riobamba is the closest city to El Altar, but navigating the route to the mountain can be tricky. Although there are some signs along the way, they’re incomplete and often won’t lead you directly to the trailhead. The starting point is actually at a small, private ranch, hidden from the main road, with a nearby water dam serving as the best landmark.

Given these challenges, it’s highly recommended to hire a guide familiar with the area. Many travel companies offer climbing excursions, making it easier to embark on an adventure to this impressive ancient volcano without the worry of finding the right path.

El Altar Peaks

El Altar is made up of nine prominent peaks organized in the shape of a reverse C. Starting with the highest point in the south and working counterclockwise, the names of the summits are as follows:

  • Obispo
  • Monja Grande
  • Monja Chica
  • Tabernaculo
  • Fraile Oriental
  • Fraile Beato
  • Fraile Central
  • Fraile Grande
  • Canónigo

El Obispo is the most popular peak of El Altar, partly because it’s the most accessible and also because it’s the highest, standing at 5,319 meters (17,451 feet) above sea level. For experienced climbers, it’s known to offer some of the best climbing in Ecuador, especially in favorable weather conditions. The route to the summit depends on snow conditions, with three main paths commonly used to reach the top. Each option presents its own challenges and rewards, making El Obispo a sought-after peak for those seeking a memorable climbing experience in Ecuador.

El Altar Trek Adventure

The El Altar trekking tour is one of Ecuador’s most remote hiking experiences, attracting few visitors each year. The weather can be highly unpredictable, with the mountains often shrouded in dense clouds and fog, so dressing in layers is essential.

This trek is physically demanding, so it’s recommended to acclimate with a few other hikes before attempting El Altar. The journey is a challenging but rewarding adventure, with long hours of hiking at high altitudes, muddy trails, and sometimes harsh weather conditions.

While reaching the summit of El Altar is technically possible, it’s an extremely difficult and complex climb, suitable only for experienced and well-prepared professional climbers. However, the trek to Crater Lake is achievable for any fit mountain hiker, and that’s the route we took on our visit to El Altar.

Day 1

Laguna Collanes or Laguna Amarilla El Altar trekking

Photo Wikipedia

Our trek to Crater Lake, or Laguna Amarillo, began early, with our guide meeting us at the hotel at 8 a.m. After a quick stop to check our gear, we set off in a van for the one-hour drive to the Sangay National Park entrance, where we registered at Hacienda Releche. Starting at an elevation of 3,070 meters, we loaded our heavy bags and equipment onto horses that would carry them ahead of us to the refuge.

We had been warned that recent rain had left the trail muddy, but we were still surprised at how challenging it was! The steep, muddy path forced us to move carefully and slowly, and it took three hours before we reached a lush, green spot where we stopped to enjoy lunch.

After a break, we continued our climb, finding the trail just as muddy but a bit easier to manage. As we ascended, the landscape began to change, revealing glimpses of El Altar’s snowy peaks in the distance.

After about seven hours of trekking, we finally arrived at Refuge Collanes. Set on a small hill with a beautiful valley below and the majestic El Altar peak beyond, the location was simply breathtaking.

The refuge itself was basic—a single bunk room with no electricity, so we settled in with flashlights and candles, embracing the rustic charm of the experience. It was a cozy, quiet evening, surrounded by the raw beauty of the Andes.

Day 2

On the second day, after an early breakfast, we set off on our trek to reach Crater Lake. The morning took us across the vast, marshy grasslands of the altiplano, where we were captivated by the sight of countless waterfalls cascading down from the mountains all around us.

As we crossed small creeks and navigated through the meadows, we looked up at the striking white peaks of El Altar in anticipation of what lay ahead.

The final stretch involved scaling a steep wall, made even more challenging and slippery from the rain. The temperature dropped significantly, but we were determined to push on to our destination.

After a long and rewarding journey, we finally arrived at Laguna Amarilla. The view took our breath away—a turquoise-green lagoon surrounded by glaciers and the towering peaks of El Altar, with misty clouds drifting in and out of view. It was a scene of surreal beauty, and the sense of achievement after such a challenging climb was incredible.

We spent about half an hour at the top, soaking in the views and the feeling of accomplishment that came with reaching our goal. It was a moment to savor, one we’ll never forget.

Day 3

After breakfast, we began our descent back to the hacienda. The journey down was faster and much easier than our challenging ascent on the first day, helped by the clearer weather.

Once we reached the hacienda, we enjoyed a well-deserved lunch before heading back to Quito that evening. It was the perfect end to an unforgettable adventure, leaving us with lasting memories of El Altar’s rugged beauty.

When to Climb

Due to its proximity to the rainforest, El Altar’s weather can be highly unpredictable, with conditions changing quickly. For the best chance at clear skies and manageable trails, it’s recommended to plan your climb in December, Ecuador’s driest month. This timing gives you a greater chance of avoiding the rain and enjoying the breathtaking views that make this trek so special.

Things to Bring

We have listed some of the essentials we packed for the El Altar climb. You can use the list below as your guide as you list down your own things to pack for your upcoming climb!

  • Warm and waterproof clothing
  • Waterproof boots
  • Cap
  • Gloves and socks
  • Field backpack
  • Water bottle
  • Compass or GPS
  • Flashlight
  • Topographic map
  • High SPF sunscreen
  • Lip balm
  • Whistle
  • Trekking Canes
  • Glasses
  • Personal toiletries
  • First aid kit including personal medications

Trekking Tips

  • If you are wearing eyeglasses, it might be really bothersome when it’s constantly raining. It might be better to wear contact lenses instead. Wearing a hat is also helpful to protect you from rain.
  • Wear waterproof clothing. It is common to rain in El Altar, particularly at higher elevations.
  • You can wear your regular hiking boots for the trek from the refuge to Crater Lake. Rubber boots are required for the remainder of the treks!
  • Hike with a knowledgeable guide. You will gain so much more information from a guide and it will also help you feel more comfortable on the trails. Our guide informed us a lot about the local flora and wildlife.
  • Don’t expect too much! The refuge is really basic and not so clean. There is no power and no shower. There are no bathrooms or showers available during the hike. Furthermore, the weather is unpredictable, with rain, fog, and freezing temperatures.

Conclusion

El Altar Volcano offers a truly rewarding hiking experience. While the trek is challenging, the satisfaction of reaching the crater lake makes every step worthwhile.

For those seeking an exciting adventure, El Altar Volcano is a must. A three-day itinerary is ideal for reaching the lake, but if your goal is to summit the peak, plan for at least a week to allow time for acclimatization and to navigate the complex route. This climb promises an unforgettable journey through Ecuador’s stunning landscapes.

About the author

Oleg Galeev

I'm Oleg, and together with my wife, we've explored Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands, journeying through more than 20 cities (Quito, Cuenca, Banos, Tena, Puyo, Guayaquil, Riobamba, Otavalo, Mindo and more) and nearly every island in the Galapagos (including iconic ones such as Bartolome Island, San Cristobal Island, Isabela Island, Santa Cruz Island and more). In this blog, I give you my real thoughts about each place we visited. This info can help anyone planning a trip to the Galapagos Islands or mainland Ecuador. I'm just a traveler, not a tour company, so I'm not trying to sell anything. That means I'll tell you the truth—both the good and the bad — about traveling in Ecuador based on what we experienced.

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